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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.